domingo, 15 de novembro de 2009

Quinta do Infantado — Reserva Especial "João Lopes Roseira"

Os respectivos rótulos dizem-nos meio-secos — menos doces que o habitual. Opção de estilo que o próprio João Roseira explica muito bem numa entrevista à revista electrónica StarChefs.com:

«This has to do with several reasons. First of all, when my father and my uncle started estate bottling Porto in 1979 a pioneer move from Quinta do Infantado as there was not a single grower bottling Porto in the Douro at that time they wanted to create a family style, different from what was being made by Gaia’s shippers. For me it is really logic to make semi-dry Portos. We think of what we do as Porto wine, and a drier Porto is closer to wine you don’t have a “sugar wall” to block wine’s little things (both in the nose and the mouth) that we love in dry wines. Our Portos are drier because we let fermentation go longer, obviously consuming sugar to produce more alcohol, so we have less residual sugar and more natural alcohol and need to add smaller quantities of wine brandy to stop fermentation and make Porto. As a consequence there is more grape juice and less wine brandy in a bottle of Quinta do Infantado Porto. I think most people don’t realize that in a “normal” bottle of Porto there can be as much as 25% wine brandy! At Infantado we work with 17% or less, which is, in my opinion, much better. It also has to do with pairing our Portos and food. Is it really necessary to have so much sugar? And such heavy Portos? At Infantado we believe in balance as the most important aspect of wine (including Porto) and that’s our bottom line, to make balanced Portos and wines.»

Bonito e fluente, o inglês do Roseira. Posto isto, the booze! —

Ruby. 19,5% v/v de etanol. Garrafa nº 2046... de quantas? Muito depressinha: este é um vinho simples, com aromas de frutos negros e violetas, passas e especiarias. Na boca mostra corpo mediano, macio e previsivelmente pouco doce, de comprimento satisfatório, com algumas notas achocolatadas a surgirem no final.

8,50€.

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